The national costume of Scottish men is the breacan feile (belted plaid)or feileadh mór, (the great plaid) (pron. breckawn fayl, fay-luh more) The cloak brat (pron. braht) consists of a wide yardage of tartan fabric belted at the waist and arranged over the shoulders. It is worn over a knee to calf-length saffron-colored linen or wool shirt with kimono shaped sleeves and green and red embroidery called a léine.(pron. LAY-na ) The saffron war-coat: leine croich is a gambeson padding worn under chainmail. Made by pleating or quilting 24 ells ( one ells = 37") of saffron-colored linen vertically. A long boot: cuaran is made of untanned hide and laced up to just under the knee or sandals. (2, 3)